
In the Courtyard of the Mosque...
It was a cloudy night, we are definitely not going to see the Moon tonight. That means another day of fasting, and we'll celebrate the end of Ramadan on Friday. Unless over in Conakry people have a clear night there, then they will announce it on the radio. One of my students Kadiaton told me. She invited me again to eat dinner w/ her family. Her home is a bit far from mine, so she usually walks me home. I'm not yet comfortable walking home on my own with just a flashlight or just with moonlight. The mosque is on my way home from hers and this time she wanted to stop for the evening prayer. She didn't ask me if I wanted to go in w/ her, instead just gave me a headwrap and took me inside, well just to the courtyard. Only men can pray inside, the women can only pray inside a secondary building or in the courtyard. Everyone pray on a mat without shoes. The women must cover their head once they are inside the mosque compound. The courtyard is landscaped with gravel and lit w/ lamps that run on a generator. I like looking at the line of women w/ their back towards me. Kneeling down on the mat sitting slightly more on the left ankle w/ the right foot turned out, heads covered in beautiful wraps slightly tilted to the right.
The composition of white mosque in the dark light w/ lines of women lit by soft lights of lamps in the courtyard is a beautiful sight. I hope I can take a picture at some point. I felt obligated to pray since I'm inside the compound. It isn't the first time I got rope into it, and it isn't too hard. i just kinda "monkey see, monkey do".
So you'll have to wait for the next post for the details of the celebration as I'll be dropping this letter off w/ someone who is going back to the states during the "fete". We got the day before the "fete" off since most students stay home anyways to get ready. Girls are getting their hair done, boys are getting their hair cut, if one has money, one will wear new clothes, shoes and eat a lot of meat during the celebration. So the person who is taking my letter back to the states was here to attend his father's funeral. His father was the Grand Iman of my village. I guess that is the equivalent of head pastor (or reverend) of a church. Apparently, lot of his children live in the U.S. and Europe. It was nice for his son to visit me, to check on me and offer to take letters back for me. He made a comment that is was nice of me to give up my life to come to Guinee, but in fact I am not stopping my life just because I'm here, I'm living here as well. Yes, it is a difficult world, but it has plenty of charm of its own.
So let me back track a little bit to pick up where my last post left off.
Teaching
So I'm teaching 2 - 7th grade of approximately 2 hours each Monday, 1 hr of 10th on Tuesday, 2 hr of 9th & 2 hr of 10th on Wednesday, and 2 8th grade of 2 hr each on Thursday. I have Friday & Sat off. We can't do 3 - 7th grades because as of now we don't have enough classrooms or tables for the 3 - 7th grade class. Some are struck w/ over 70 students for each 7th grade class (Should be more then that according to the roster, but some students rarely show up). The 7th grades aren't too bad. Even though I doubt that they really understand my lessons (either their French level is too low, or my French still needs improvement), they are at least eager to respond to my questions. They are also new to college, so they still have the "Freshman Fear", (for the lack of better words). 10th grade is the most serious and studious, because they all want to graduate college and move on to lycee or whatever else. I have about 50 students in 10th. 9th grade is also pretty good, curious and lively, mature enough to behave rather well. 8th grade is half & half. One class is quite engaged, while the other is my worst class kind of dead and non-responsive. I hope it will change. I'm trying hard to demonstrate a lot to get my message across, to make things as interesting as possible. We don't really teach the full 2hrs. Maybe only 1.5 hr. The whole things when class starts and finish is kinda vague, and perhaps it is the beginning of the semester, we aren't enforcing starting classes right at 08:00am The flag is raised every morning before 8:00 and the bell is a tire rim hang off a tree branch in the courtyard, sound off by hitting it w/ a wrench.
Week 2 & 3, we still had prof. not back from vacation, sometimes students walked 7km (probably 1hr walk) only to find out their prof. still not here and they can just go home. It is getting better now we are into the 5th or 6th week. We finally had a town meeting which decided how much each student family must contribute to the cost of repair the 7th classroom and build more tables & chairs. we already but down one large tree on the way to school for wood, but I have a feeling all these won't be done by the end of this year, given that problem didn't get resolved during vacation, and town meeting took a while to happen. Little by little we'll get things done. Patience is a virtue. I'm slowly learning my students names. Just like any ethnicity, there are faces that are very distinct and naturally that makes it easier for me to remember their name and face. I'm glad that 5 girls have stepped up to show me their home and invited me over to eat w/ them. So you see, I really can't go hungry b/w eating w/ my student families. of course I bring a baguette when I go the second time around. Can't be a freeloader all the time. Yep, baguette is something western, but eaten widely by the locals here.
Eve de Fete
So I want to go back to the Fete (celebration) a bit, because it has a feel of waiting up for New years. Quite exciting for me, a first timer. So, I was writing this letter, one of my female students came by close to 8:00pm wanting me to go to her home for a bit. I was surprised she came as I thought she had something against me before (more like her & her dad would give me a hard time when I can't understand Pular), anyway, I don't miss any opportunity to spend sometime w/ my female students unless I'm preparing my lesson. Also, she lives very close. The poor thing, her dad is the president of district, so of course they will have a lot of visitors tomorrow, so they have to prepare a lot of food. I dove right into cutting veggies and picking stones in rice. Working alongside of students is always the best way to bond w/ the people. Really I'm a volunteer 24/7. Well, except when I'm sleeping. I would love to stay till the end, but I had to come back to continue write to you. I think a lot of women and girls worked late into the evening today and they all have to get up at 4:00am the day of the Fete to prepare for breakfast. Then morning prayer @ 10:00am which I'll attend as well. Yes, I'm excited for all the good eats, happy faces on the streets, new clothes and well wishes, of course it would've been extra special if I fasted, but I'll have to wait till next year.
Month of Ramadan
So I couldn't hack it even when I woke at 5:00am to eat & drink, by noon, I just, can't keep it going. Not eating isn't so difficult, but not being able to drink water is very difficult. One is not suppose to swallow spit also. I ended up just ate lots of oranges during the day, and some snacks, but no real lunch. Unfortunately I got mildly sick, like a cold for a while, and now that I'm well, the fasting is over. I wonder if not eating properly and being at a new place contributed to me getting sick. Not being able to drink H2O in a hot climate like this for over 12hrs is really unhealthy, but a good lesson to experience the suffering of those who has even less than my villagers. Everything is relative, the more I live here, the more I feel we have abundance of food, but compare to the U.S., we probably seems quite pathetic, but people don't starve here unless they are fasting. Whenever we can we breakfast w/ congee of crushed rice or corn, mixed w/ lemon juice & sugar. They like to crush rice or corn w/ an enlarged version of ceramic medicine grinder, except it is just wooded, the women are strong from pounding rice, corn, meat (that's how they crush it close to ground meat). After rice or corn is pounded to flour like H2O is added to make them into little ball then cooked to congee. The men would gather together pray, then eat congee. Women also eat congee but separate from men. afterwards, rice and sauce is still the main meal. So I'm very careful not to eat or drink in of others during daytime. If someone is sick, he/she can take off fasting for a few days, but will have to make it up later. Yes, I get a lot of teasing from everyone if I'm fasting or not. I just always say "maybe tomorrow".
Relations w/ People
So like I mentioned before, I'm getting to know a few of my female students, one in particular who is a seamstress outside of school I get along w/ quite well. I wish I don't need so much time to prepare my lessons, and have more to go see my students. They will ask me 2 days after I was just there why I haven't come back, and I worry a little if one family or student get jealous of another student if I spend more time w/ her. Also, every time I go, they always make me stay and eat, and give me extra to take home. One, I feel bad eating. Two, it can take a long time.
That is the problem w/ one teacher w/ so many students, there is just one of me, but so many of them. And trying to tell the faces of parents, or little sisters & brothers of my student when I see them in the market can be difficult. Sometimes they really look similar. Also I wish I can share some food w/ my student families, but w/ large family size here, it is so difficult to do. Really I know very little Pular, basic hello I can do (of course basic hello can be 5 - 6 exchanges), and most food. Even w/ little bit, my students families are always pleasantly surprised. To say hello throughout the day, and buying stuff @ the market or store, I always say it in Pular. I'm not actively study Pular, but i'll pick a few key words or phrases here or there. I don't mind bad grammar in Pular right now, and I think people is happy even if I just try.
First time away from Home.
We had to go to Labe for girls conference mtg. I was kinda dreading it, because I'm comfortable here and would much rather stay than either biking or ride bush taxi to Labe. We had no choice but to bike, because there is no car going to Labe the day we had to go. I had to first bike 17km to another village and stay over at Toni's (another volunteer who teaches English), then the next day we left for Lave at 7:00am. There is a mountain b/w her and I, and I have to push the bike up and down at some part, because I am just not Lance Armstrong. We didn't get to Labe until 2:00pm in the afternoon. The distance isn't bad, 45km, but the terrain is a killer. 2 large mountains, water puddles, gravels that seems to glue the tires to the ground, large rocks seems like steps that we must walk to get pass, I finally got a taste of mountain biking. The scenery is beautiful, especially through the yellow wheat (?) field that is waist high, imagine biking through sea of soft flowing wheat of mountains in the distance. We passed through a few small villages, and was fun to greet people along the way. Didn't like it once we got to Labe, all the people, calling us "Portos" (white people in pular), noisy, fumes, oh-la-la, I much prefer my small and friendly village. Stay at Labe wasn't too exciting, exchanged some stories & talked about what we do for girls conference, then we just sat around. The highlight is that I got to talk to my family on the phone and reassured them things are going well at site. We stayed for 2 nights and came back to site on our bikes also. The return trip only takes 5.5 hrs, as the first leg is all downhill. We are hoping we'll get better at it each time we go. What happens to hole in tire you ask? We are equipped w/ patch kit, so it shouldn't be a problem. Although we were lucky not have encountered it in our 1st trip. I was worried about it, but now I qualified to adjust breaks. Perhaps in 2 years, if nothing else I'll be at least good at fixing bike. So I biked almost 130 km in 3 days. Very proud of myself.
Misc
Okay, so I hope you all can eat one less meal out and contribute to girls conf. mtg that we'll have in Dec. We are $7,000 short. regardless , it will take place less money means less things we can do w/ girls. $5 or $10, whatever amount you are comfortable, doesn't need to be much. Check out http://www.friendsofguinea.org for details. I can't stress enough the importance of empowering young women in all aspect of their lives, for their better being and the the future of developing countries, so please help whatever you can.
Secondly, I'm getting used to the food here and can do w/ much less goodies from the U.S. I like them, but I would much rather if people can concentrate their effort on gathering free French books and send them over to me. If you are interesting in helping out please contact Michael, as I am hoping he is looking into facilitating the effort.
Communication is sporadic, so I'll thank ahead for everyone who will be contributing on helping w/ books. I hope that book gathering will be a continuing effort and kids here will definitely benefit from reading material other than their class notes. Maybe 5% of students can afford to buy text books.
Okay I'll leave you here, as I must get ready to manage (eat), manage (eat), and manage (eat), some more for the day. :-)
Hope you are all well. Oh, geeze before I forget, I've received 4 postcards, and 3 packages from my families, still no letters. Very strange. So much love is packed in the packages I've got. I can just picture my mom commanding my dad to use up a whole roll of duct tape on covering one box so it will get to me. Thanks mom, it brought tears to my eyes.
Please tell Mark, Sam and Michelle S. I said Happy Birthday, sorry I didn't get a chance to make a card (greeting cards don't exist here) to them but I'm thinking of them.
I feel like I'm forgetting something, but oh well... Hope you are all well.
Thinking of all of you!
- Bonnie
Morning of November 04th, 2005